Partington Cove is a moderately steep, family-friendly hike two miles north of McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park in Big Sur. The main trail descends to three spurs leading to Partington Creek, Partington Cove, and Partington Point. The crystal-clear water in Partington Cove, Big Sur cliffs, historic redwood tunnel, and Partington Creek cascades — all packaged into a short trail — make this an excellent leg-stretcher on your Big Sur drive.
Begin at the green gate on the south side of Highway 1. The wide dirt road drops steeply southwest to the trickling sounds of Partington Creek and the cool, coastal wind. It is common to see fog on summer mornings, although it typically burns off by midday. Pastel tinted plants—lupine, pink sea buckwheat, and light green sagebrush—mingle like a watercolor with the blues and aquas of the ocean. It really is that pretty.
View looking southwest towards Partington Point and a boulder beach, reachable from the third (westernmost) spur.
Descend 180 feet in 0.3 miles, and then spot a narrow trail on your left. This 0.15-mile out-and-back spur leads to view of Partington Creek. It is a modest, but pretty viewpoint if you don’t mind a little maneuvering: In summer 2019, I ducked and crawled through a couple downed trees to reach it.
Pretty cascades in Partington Creek.
Back on the main trail, descend 100 feet to a Y-junction. Turn left to cross a wooden bridge, taking a 0.3-mile out-and-back spur to Partington Cove. A shady redwood forest greets you on the other side of the bridge, leading to a 100-foot tunnel through granite. The tunnel, framed in redwood planks, was just tall enough for my 5’9″ self to walk through without hitting my head. Folks over six feet tall might have to duck a bit.
A left-hand turn at a Y-junction crosses a wooden bridge to Partington Cove. A right-hand turn leads to a boulder beach and Partington Point.
John Partington, a homesteader in Big Sur, created this tunnel in the 1870s and used Partington Cove to transport tanoak bark and redwoods by ship to Santa Cruz and San Francisco. Tanoak bark was valued for its tannins, which were used to make leather. Coast redwoods were a favored building material because the wood is slower to burn than other woods, rot-resistant, and insect-repellent, making it a good choice for a home.
After passing through the tunnel, emerge on a trail along a ledge with a wooden protective fence. Looking down, you can see the crystal-clear waters of Partington Cove. The granite here is erosion resistant, with minimal rock fall to muddy up the water, hence its clarity. The trail ends at Partington Landing where you can listen for wildlife and watch waves lapping at the cove’s rocky ledges.
A bench marks the end of the spur to Partington Cove, a great spot to watch and listen for wildlife.
When ready, retrace your steps back to the Y-junction. This time, take the right-hand fork to explore the 0.2-mile out-and-back spur to Partington Point. The brushy trail weaves through a tangle of overgrown plants to a boulder-covered beach. On your left is the outlet for Partington Creek, where you can see it flowing into the ocean.
Now that you have visited all three spurs, it is time to hike back up! As you hike northeast up the main trail to the green gate, the Santa Lucia Mountains roll overhead, where Partington Creek begins over 3,000 feet above. I wonder what Julia Pfeiffer Burns, a homesteader who lived south of McWay Falls with her husband, John Burns, would make of the four square-mile park named after her. Although she passed in 1928, her good friend, Helen Brown, dedicated it to her in 1962. The Browns “enjoyed her plain-spoken manner and big heart,” and according to her niece, Esther Pfeiffer Ewoldsen, Julia “loved people, picnics, dances, and whipped cream cakes.”
Notes:
- Park hours are 8:00 a.m. to sunset.
- There is no fee to park.
- Dogs are not allowed with the exception of service dogs.
- Swimming, climbing on rocks, and wading are unsafe due to the strong surf. All diving is prohibited except by special permit.
- More camping options are available at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, 8.9 miles north of the Partington Cove hike. The shady, redwood-filled park is a camper’s dream. Riverside camping and multiple hiking trails are available along with cabins and rooms at Big Sur Lodge. A restaurant, espresso bar, and park gift shop are within walking distance of campsites. It is a popular park and campsites tend to fill up 6 months in advance, so it’s a good bet to book early, if you can.
Tags: Big Sur, Julie Pfeiffer Burns State Park, pacific coast highway, Pacific Ocean, Partington Cove, Santa Lucia Mountains
